Where Cannons Roar and Roofs Talk
Zagreb, the vibrant capital and largest city of Croatia, seamlessly combines rich historical heritage with contemporary style.
Climb the cobbled streets to Gornji Grad, Zagreb’s medieval Upper Town, and a boom will be heard at exactly 12:00 noon, every single day. No, it isn’t war. It’s ritual. From the top of Lotrščak Tower, a cannon has been fired for over a century—once used to synchronize the church bells across the city. Locals sip coffee like nothing happened. Tourists flinch. It’s part of the fun.
One of the most iconic and easily recognizable landmarks in Zagreb is the vibrant, multicolored tiled roof of St. Mark’s Church, located in the historic Upper Town. Covered in colorful ceramic tiles, it bears the coats of arms of Zagreb and the historic Kingdoms of Croatia, Slavonia, and Dalmatia. A political message, dressed as art.
While the church itself traces its origins to the 13th century, the stunning roof as we see it today was added during a major restoration following the devastating earthquake of 1880, thanks to the renowned architect Herman Bollé.
The roof’s intricate design is rich with symbolism. On the right side, you’ll find the coat of arms of the city of Zagreb, featuring the classic image of a three-towered city. On the left side, three historic coats of arms are displayed: at the top left is Croatia’s famous red and white checkerboard; next to it, Dalmatia’s blue shield adorned with golden, crowned lions; and below them, the medieval emblem of Slavonia, showing a pine marten (kuna) set between two rivers. Together, these symbols represent the historical unity of Croatia’s key regions.
The City That Still Lights Its Lamps
But come dusk, something even more magical unfolds. A man in a navy-blue uniform walks the streets of Upper Town, stopping at each gas lamp to light it by hand. Over 200 of them. In a digital age, this may seem unnecessary — but in Zagreb, it remains sacred tradition.
Why Is Zagreb Called Zagreb?
Legend says a thirsty knight stopped at a spring and asked a girl named Manda to scoop some water: “Mando, zagrabi vode!” (“Manda, scoop some water!”). From that word — zagrabi — came the name Zagreb.
The spring, now known as Manduševac Fountain, still flows in the city’s main square.
Folklore or not, the name has stuck for over 900 years — a blend of myth and memory beneath the cobblestones.
A Taste of Zagreb: Štrukli
If there’s one dish that captures the soul of Zagreb, it isn’t a lavish roast or exotic seafood plate — it’s a humble, warm bundle of joy called štrukli.
But don’t let its simplicity fool anyone. Štrukli has stories to tell.
Štrukli began in the kitchens of Zagorje, the hilly region just north of Zagreb, where hardworking farmers kneaded dough by hand and filled it with fresh cottage cheese, eggs, and cream. It was the food of grandmothers and quiet Sundays, warm and nourishing.
Over time, this modest comfort food climbed the social ladder — making appearances on the menus of aristocrats, embassies, and even at state banquets. Today, štrukli is served in everything from street kiosks to high-end restaurants, including Michelin-listed spots.
In 2007, Zagorski štrukli became an official part of Croatia’s intangible cultural heritage — a title protected by the Croatian Ministry of Culture. That’s right: this is a dish so beloved, it has been written into national identity.
Power and Politics on a Cobblestone Square: Parliament & the Government Palace
Step into St. Mark’s Square to stand in one of the most politically powerful yet visually peaceful places in Croatia.
The Parliament (Sabor): Where 1,000 Years of Debate Still Echo
Croatia’s Parliament (Hrvatski sabor) has roots stretching back over nine centuries — making it one of Europe’s oldest continuously operating legislative bodies.
The first recorded session took place in 925 A.D. under King Tomislav.
Throughout history, it’s been dissolved by emperors, restored by rebels, and even held in exile during war.
Today, the building blends 19th-century Austro-Hungarian design with modern Croatian resilience, hosting fiery debates that help shape the country’s future — all behind those deceptively calm white walls.
Fun fact: Locals often refer to Parliament simply as “Sabor,” and protestors frequently gather outside peacefully — it’s the Croatian way.
The Government Palace: Where Deals Are Made Over Espresso
Directly across the square sits Banski dvori, the official seat of the Croatian Government and the Prime Minister’s office. Once a residence for 19th-century Bans (viceroys) of Croatia, the building is as politically charged as it is architecturally refined.
Here, major EU decisions, international diplomacy, and crisis meetings unfold — often accompanied by Zagreb’s national beverage of choice: a strong espresso.
In 1991, during the Croatian War of Independence, this quiet building was bombed during an air raid aimed at the President — a sobering reminder that history here isn’t just ancient. It’s recent. It’s raw.
The Public Can Walk Right Through Power
What makes St. Mark’s Square so unique is that it remains open and approachable. There are no heavy gates or high fences — just cobblestones, a few guards, and the occasional street musician echoing through the arches.
It’s democracy with a human touch. And on a sunny day, when the church tiles gleam and a group of schoolchildren pass by on a field trip, it’s hard to believe real power pulses here — silently, steadily, surrounded by centuries.
So, why does Zagreb matter in the story of Croatia? Because it begins the story. Before the truffle forests of Istria, the waterfalls of Plitvice, and the sea organ songs of Zadar — this is the place to pause, wander, and listen.
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