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Split: Walk Through a Palace, Dine Like a Local

06-06-2025

Where History Lives: Diocletian’s Palace

At the heart of Split lies one of the most fascinating historical sites in Europe: Diocletian’s Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site built in the 4th century AD.

  • Historical fact:

The palace was constructed using limestone from Brač island, marble from Italy, and columns and sphinxes from Egypt. You can still see an ancient black granite sphinx from Luxor standing in Peristyle Square. The four main gates of the palace are named Golden, Silver, Iron, and Bronze — each facing a cardinal direction. The Golden Gate (Porta Aurea) was the ceremonial entrance for Emperor Diocletian. The remarkably preserved cellars (substructures) of the palace mirror the original floor plan above. This has helped archaeologists reconstruct what the upper floors would have looked like. 

Emperor Diocletian commissioned the palace as his retirement residence after voluntarily abdicating the Roman throne in 305 AD — a rare move for a Roman emperor.

  • Interesting fact:

The palace wasn’t just for show — it was the retirement residence of Roman Emperor Diocletian, who stepped down from power (an extremely rare move in Roman times) to live out his days by the sea. Today, the palace is the living, beating heart of Split: filled with homes, shops, cafes, galleries, and everyday life. Several scenes from Game of Thrones were filmed here. Daenerys Targaryen’s throne room was shot in the palace’s underground cellars, making it a hotspot for fans.  

  • Local Tip:

Ask a local, and they’ll tell you that “the palace isn’t a monument — it’s home.” Families have lived within these walls for generations, and the layout of Split still follows the Roman grid. You can even stand in the Peristyle, the palace’s original ceremonial courtyard, where emperors once stood — and now, opera singers perform on warm summer nights.

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A Taste of Tradition: Pašticada

You have not truly experienced Split without tasting Pašticada — a beloved Dalmatian beef stew, marinated in vinegar and wine, slow-cooked with prunes, and served with homemade gnocchi. It’s not just a dish, it’s a Sunday ritual, lovingly passed down through generations. What’s in it? Veal or beef, onions, garlic, red wine, vinegar, root vegetables, dried fruit, cloves… and time. Lots of it. Local Insight: Pašticada is rarely found on fast-food menus. The best way to try it? In a konoba — a traditional tavern — where grandmothers are still the queens of the kitchen.

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Grgur Ninski Statue: A Touch of Luck & Defiance

  • Historical fact: Just outside the Golden Gate of Diocletian’s Palace stands the towering bronze statue of Grgur Ninski (Gregory of Nin) — a 10th-century Croatian bishop who boldly defied the Pope by conducting religious services in Old Croatian (Glagolitic script) instead of Latin. This courageous act made religion more accessible to ordinary people and turned Grgur into a lasting symbol of national pride, resistance, and cultural identity. The statue, sculpted by world-renowned Croatian artist Ivan Meštrović, stands at over 8 meters tall and was originally placed in the Peristyle before being moved to its current location in 1929. It was even hidden during WWII to protect it from destruction. 

  • Local Tip: Don’t leave without rubbing his shiny left big toe — locals say it brings good luck, love, and even fertility! In fact, touching the toe has become so popular that it now gleams brightly compared to the rest of the statue.

  • Fun Fact: During holidays and local celebrations, people often dress up the statue with scarves, hats, or football team colors — making him a playful part of Split’s modern street culture.

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Cathedral and Bell Tower of St. Domnius: Faith Through the Centuries

Step inside Diocletian’s Palace and discover one of the oldest Catholic cathedrals still in active use — the Cathedral of St. Domnius (Sveti Duje). Originally built as Diocletian’s mausoleum in the 4th century, it was transformed into a Christian cathedral in the 7th century — a powerful twist of fate, considering Diocletian’s persecution of early Christians. 

The cathedral is a mash-up of architectural styles: ancient Roman stonework, medieval additions, and later Baroque details. Its compact interior features ornately carved 13th-century wooden choir stalls, an impressive altarpiece, and relics of Saint Domnius, the martyred bishop who is now the city's patron saint. 

Local Insight: Every year on May 7, Split celebrates Sveti Duje Day with processions, concerts, and a city-wide feast. It’s the most important local holiday, drawing thousands of people into the square outside the cathedral. 

Climb the Bell Tower

Originally constructed in the 12th century and completed over several hundred years, the bell tower of St. Domnius is one of the most iconic sights on Split’s skyline. Standing at 57 meters (187 feet) tall, the climb offers a thrilling (and slightly nerve-wracking) journey up narrow stone stairs and metal platforms.

 One of the best panoramic views in Dalmatia — from the terracotta rooftops of Split’s Old Town to the sparkling Adriatic and the distant islands of Brač and Šolta. 

Tip from locals: Visit early in the morning or just before sunset — fewer crowds, softer light, and a truly magical atmosphere.

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